Explore handwoven Tanchoi Banarasi sarees in pure silk - a centuries-old weave where pattern and ground are inseparable. Authentic Varanasi craft. Shop Aura Benerans online.
Tanchoi Banarasi Sarees - The Weave That Carries Its Pattern From Within
Some textiles announce themselves immediately. Tanchoi does the opposite. It draws you in gradually, and the longer you look, the more it reveals.
This is not a weave built on spectacle. It does not rely on heavy zari borders or densely packed motifs to make its case. Tanchoi works through refinement - through the way it builds pattern into the very body of the fabric using coloured weft threads that sit so smoothly within the weave structure that the surface feels almost continuous, almost seamless, as though the pattern grew there rather than was placed there.
In the world of Banarasi sarees, Tanchoi holds a distinct, somewhat understated position. It is not the most heavily worked weave in the tradition. It is not the loudest or the most embellished. But among those who understand Banarasi silk at a technical level, Tanchoi is consistently respected for the quiet precision it demands and the particular kind of elegance it produces.
If you have been looking to buy a pure Katan silk Banarasi saree online that offers sophistication without ostentation, Tanchoi is the weave that answers that search most directly.
The Origins of Tanchoi: A Weave That Travelled to Find Its Home
The origin story of Tanchoi is one of the more interesting in the Banarasi weaving tradition, because it does not begin in Varanasi at all.
Tanchoi weaving is believed to have arrived in India via three Parsi brothers - the "Tan" in Tanchoi is thought to reference the three brothers, and "choi" derives from a Chinese word meaning colour or pattern. The brothers reportedly travelled to China, specifically to the weaving centres of Guangzhou and Suzhou, to learn a particular satin-based weave technique that used coloured weft threads to build surface pattern without supplementary floating threads on the reverse.
When they returned to India, they brought the technique with them. It found its way to Surat initially, where the Parsi community had strong weaving connections, and eventually to Varanasi, where it was absorbed into the Banarasi weaving tradition and adapted to the materials and sensibilities of the city's master weavers.
What Varanasi did with Tanchoi was characteristic of the city's approach to every weave it has adopted across its history. It did not simply replicate what had been brought to it. It refined the technique, deepened it, and made it distinctly its own. The Tanchoi produced in Varanasi today bears the heritage of its Chinese and Parsi origins but belongs completely to the Banarasi tradition.
How Tanchoi Weaving Works: Pattern Without Interruption
The defining technical feature of Tanchoi is the way coloured weft threads are managed within the weave structure.
In most patterned Banarasi weaves, supplementary weft threads that carry the pattern travel either only within the motif area - as in Kadwa work - or across the full width of the loom behind the fabric, as in Fekua work. Tanchoi uses a different approach. The coloured weft threads that build the surface pattern are woven in as part of the base fabric structure itself, interlacing with the warp at regular intervals rather than floating freely above or behind the ground.
This integration produces a fabric surface that is remarkably smooth and even. There are no raised areas where supplementary threads sit above the ground. There are no floating threads on the reverse, creating texture or bulk. The pattern and the ground are structurally unified in a way that is unusual even within the technically rich world of pure Banarasi silk saree weaving.
The result is a saree with a particular handle - fluid, smooth, and with a lustrous surface sheen that catches light differently from brocaded or heavily supplementary-thread alternatives. When you hold a genuine Tanchoi Banarasi saree, it moves in a way that heavier weaves cannot. The pattern travels with the fabric rather than sitting on top of it.
Two-weft and three-weft Tanchoi are the most common constructions, referring to the number of coloured weft threads used in the pattern weave. Three-weft Tanchoi produces richer, more densely coloured surfaces and is generally considered the finer of the two.
Tanchoi Motifs: Small, Considered, and Precisely Placed
Tanchoi motifs tend towards the refined rather than the elaborate. Small florals, delicate paisleys, fine geometric repeats, and subtle all-over patterns are the most characteristic Tanchoi surface designs. These motifs are well suited to the smooth, integrated nature of the weave - large, heavy motifs would disrupt the evenness that Tanchoi construction produces.
Traditional Tanchoi colour combinations often use two or three colours within the pattern weft against a contrasting silk ground. Ivory motifs on deep burgundy. Gold-toned thread on black. Soft coral on deep teal. The restraint in colour count is not a limitation. It is a deliberate compositional choice that gives Tanchoi its characteristic elegance.
When Banarasi weavers incorporate Minakari-influenced colour filling into Tanchoi motifs, the result is a more festive and colourful surface while still retaining the smooth, integrated handle that defines the weave. A Banarasi saree with Minakari work executed in Tanchoi construction offers colour richness without the surface relief of heavier brocaded alternatives.
Tanchoi for Weddings and Formal Occasions
A handloom Banarasi saree for wedding in Tanchoi construction makes a very specific kind of statement. It is a choice for a woman who knows exactly what she is wearing and does not need the fabric to announce itself to those who do not.
That said, Tanchoi is not a quiet saree in the wrong sense. On the right occasion, in the right light, a Tanchoi Banarasi saree in deep red with fine gold-toned pattern wefts is as fully bridal as any heavily brocaded alternative. The difference is in the quality of the presence it creates. Brocade announces. Tanchoi establishes.
For a red bridal Banarasi saree for wedding, Tanchoi in pure Katan silk offers a drape and movement that heavier weaves cannot match. The saree settles into pleats cleanly, moves with the wearer rather than against her, and maintains its surface quality through a long day of ceremony without the stiffness that dense supplementary thread work can sometimes produce.
For wedding guests and formal occasion dressing, Tanchoi sarees in jewel tones offer a level of refinement that suits contexts where the expectation is elegant rather than festive. Corporate events, formal receptions, cultural ceremonies, and evening functions are all settings where Tanchoi's particular combination of pattern and restraint reads exactly as it should.
For those seeking authentic Banarasi silk saree craftsmanship from India that demonstrates technical depth through subtlety rather than elaboration, Tanchoi is one of the most rewarding places in the entire tradition to look.
Identifying Authentic Tanchoi Weaving
When buying a pure Banarasi silk saree online in the Tanchoi category, the smooth surface is the first thing to assess. Genuine Tanchoi has an even, almost satin-like finish where pattern and ground read as part of the same surface rather than as two separate layers.
Check the reverse of the saree. Authentic Tanchoi weaving produces a reverse that is nearly as neat as the front, with the coloured weft threads interlacing cleanly into the fabric structure rather than floating in long sections behind the pattern areas. A reverse with long horizontal floats crossing between motifs suggests a different weave construction is being marketed as Tanchoi.
The drape test is equally informative. Genuine Tanchoi in pure Katan silk falls in long, fluid lines when held up. If the fabric feels stiff or does not move fluidly, either the silk quality is lower than described, or the weave construction is not authentic Tanchoi.
Aura Benerans sources every Tanchoi piece directly from Varanasi weavers who have worked with this specific construction across generations, with complete transparency on silk type, weft count, and weave method.
Experience the artistry and finesse of true Tanchoi weaving.
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